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A
visit to Florence (Firenze) is a must for any art lover. UNESCO estimates
that 60% of the world’s most important artworks are in Italy, with over half
of them located in Florence. Situated in the northwest of Italy, surrounded by
the wine-growing hills of Chianti, the city attracts rapture and frustration in
equal proportions. Few can dismiss the image of Brunelleschi’s cathedral dome
bursting through the morning mist – a terracotta balloon hovering above the
medieval rooftops. But once the visitor drops down to street level, the
profusion of traffic, tourists and touts can remove all sense of tranquillity.
It seems every building holds a masterpiece, demanding attention and often
gobbling up funds. The streets are narrow and dark, enclosed on either side by
granite palaces and even the open spaces are crowded with babbling tour groups.
Often called the cradle of the Renaissance, Florence owes much of her wealth to
the Middle Ages. Banking became big business on the back of the city’s
profitable wool trade and, in 1235, Florence minted the florin, the first
gold coin to become standard currency across Europe. In their turn, these
bankers commissioned some of the finest art and architecture in the city. The
names Strozzi, Rucellai and Pitti can be found all over Florence but it was the
Medici family – who led the city for over 300 years off and on – that
nurtured the greatest flowering of Renaissance art. The paintings of Botticelli,
the sculptures of Michelangelo and the rusticated palaces of Michelozzo all
flourished under their rule.
Then, as now, most of the action in Florence took place between Piazza del Duomo
and Piazza della Signoria, the city’s civic heart. Here, in the historic
centre, Dante – forefather of the Italian language – first glimpsed his
muse, Beatrice. Here, the Florentine Republic rose and fell. And here,
Savonarola’s Bonfire of the Vanities blazed. Florence, for all her
timeless charm, is no stranger to destruction. In 1944, all her bridges, save
the Ponte Vecchio, were bombed by the Germans in an attempt to stall the advance
of the allies. In 1966, the banks of the River Arno burst, flooding the city
with her muddied waters and devastating homes and artwork. Most recently, in
1993, a bomb exploded near the Uffizi Gallery ripping through the museum’s
interior and claiming several lives. That said, the only violence most tourists
are likely to witness is during the medieval football match on June 24 –
Florence’s patron saint day – when petty wrangles can spill onto the pitch.
It is best to avoid the peak summer months of July and August when the weather
can be unbearably sticky and the prospect of trailing around museums becomes
unappealing. Early autumn, when the countryside glows with mellow fruitfulness,
is the best time to visit, avoiding the heat and the queues and capitalising on
the soft light, empty streets and the abundance of wild mushrooms and
just-pressed olive oil.
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