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The
City of One Hundred Towers and Spires’ and ‘Golden Prague’ are names that
evoke the many aspects of this fascinating Czechoslovakian city. Its rich
architectural heritage largely results from centuries of escaping the worst
ravages of war. If anything, it has been too successful. Maintenance, especially
of the painted stucco exteriors, is a constant process. Even in the last
century, travellers complained about scaffolding erected at many locations.
Under the Communists, Prague was the showplace of the Warsaw Pact, although in a
muted fashion. Since the 1989 Velvet Revolution, the capital has thrown off
decades of oppression and is now returning to its former glory.
Situated in the valley of the Vltava (Moldau) River, Prague is dominated
by the castle perched on the Western bluffs. Visitors are drawn to the ‘fairy
tale’ aspect of the city but this is only part of its vibrant mixture of
styles. Prague is unquestionably a city that is best explored on foot – the
entire centre has been designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Gothic churches
rub shoulders with Cubist, Functionalist and ultra-modern buildings, classical
music intermingles with jazz and rock, while monumental statues sit next to
abstract works and even a Cubist lamppost. Prague’s present form was
established by the Premyslid King Otakar II (1253-78), when the town was re-organised
into three administrative districts: the Castle precincts (Hradcany), the
Lesser Town below the Castle (Mála Strana) and Old Town (Staré Mesto).
Across the river, the Jewish community was moved from Lesser Town to the Josefov
ghetto to provide room for German traders.
The city’s golden age commenced when Charles IV of Bohemia was elected Holy
Roman Emperor in 1346. The ambitious Gothic building programme –including St
Vitus Cathedral, the Charles Bridge, the University, and the New Town (Nové
Mesto) centred on Wenceslas Square – transformed the city into one of the
greatest and most powerful in Europe. In reaction to Hapsburg rule, Czech
nationalism re-asserted itself in the late 18th century. Throughout the 19th
century, the development of a nationalistic architectural style brought further
changes. Later still, the Jewish ghetto was razed to make way for Art Nouveau
buildings. At the end of World War I, Czechoslovakia gained its independence.
Freed from the censorship and constraints of the Austro-Hungarian Empire, Prague
blossomed as new artistic styles were embraced and developed – Cubism, Art
Deco and Functionalism found a niche in its arts and architecture. Strong
influences came from America as Prague was ripe for the importation of Jazz Age
popular culture. Parallels with the 1990s are inescapable – in both cases,
Prague took what it wanted, while retaining its unique identity. Not even
decades of Nazi and Communist suppression successfully stifled the Czech spirit.
Prague dramatically threw off stark social realism and, in the 1990s, reclaimed
its reputation for cultural excellence.
Prague remains one of the most popular destinations for backpackers, still being
relatively cheap, although the gap between European prices grows less each year.
Recent changes to the laws regarding foreign workers have made it difficult for
non-Czechs to find work but, although the ‘great days’ of Prague as a centre
for expatriates may have passed, a substantial number still remain, the majority
of who are generally serious about work and the arts.
The best times to visit Prague are in the early spring and the late autumn –
after the majority of tourists have left. If the cold isn’t a problem, the
winter months are the quietest time. Prague has a generally mild climate,
although very high and low temperatures can be encountered. Autumn is the season
with the highest rainfall. As one of the European cities of culture for the year
2000, Prague chose the theme of urban transformation – an idea that will
continue for a number of years, as it looks forward to its exciting role in the
new century.
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